Mount Pinos Highway is an approximately 10.2-mile rural corridor located in the Transverse Ranges of Los Padres National Forest. This corridor is named after Mount Pinos which is piece of the Salinian Block located at 8,831 feet above sea level.
Modern Mount Pinos Highway was constructed in the late 1950s as a functional replacement for Mill Canyon Road. The modern paved highway is eight miles long and fully maintained as Kern County Road 349 despite briefly dipping into Ventura County. The paved segment terminates at 8,300 feet above sea level at the Mount Pinos Nordic Base.
The remaining 2.2 miles of Mount Pinos Highway is a dirt surface corridor annexed from Mill Creek Road which continues to the summit of Mount Pinos and the Tumamait Trail. This dirt portion is generally closed to automotive access but is popular with hikers and cross-country skiers. Mount Pinos is the highest point in Ventura County and Los Padres National Forest.
Part 1; the history of Mount Pinos Highway
Mount Pinos is mountain peak located in Transverse Ranges of Southern California. At an elevation of 8,847 feet above sea level Mount Pinos is the highest point in Ventura County.
Mount Pinos lies close the San Emigdio Mountains but is comprised of materials from southernmost portion of the Salinian Block. The Salinian Block lies along the western trace of the San Andreas Fault and is generally comprised of uplifted granite. Mount Pinos carries a prominence of 4,800 feet from the surrounding terrain and is easily observable on clear days from southern San Joaquin Valley.
The Chumash Native Americans for name Mount Pinos is "Iwihimu." In the Samala language this name means "place of mystery." The summit of Mount Pinos is considered the center of the Chumash universe and is referred to as "Liyikshup."
The current name "Mount Pinos" came from Spanish explorers who found it notable due to the abundance of pine trees they found. Mount Pinos was an important waypoint on the Spanish overland corridor known as El Camino Viejo a Los Ángeles (translated as the Old Road to Los Angeles). This corridor is more well known in modern times as "El Camino Viejo."
Since the Spanish Missions were located along the coast the majority of travel in Spanish Las Californias was along El Camino Real. Travel into the interior of Las Californias through San Joaquin Valley was a difficult prospect given the lack of civilization and more so due to the Tule Marshes of Kern Lake, Buena Vista Lake, Tulare Lake and the San Joaquin River. Travel inland to the San Francisco Bay Area from Los Angeles was desired by some which led to the creation El Camino Viejo which was in common use as early as 1780.
El Camino Viejo was the first European route from Los Angeles to San Joaquin Valley. From Los Angeles the highway continued northward into San Fernando Valley and to Mission San Fernando Rey de Espana. From San Fernando Valley the highway ascended into the Sierra Pelona Mountains. El Camino Viejo entered San Francisquito Canyon to San Francisquito Pass where it emptied into Antelope Valley in the western flank of the Mojave Desert near Elizabeth Lake.
Upon entering Antelope Valley, the route of El Camino Viejo turned west along the San Andreas Fault to what is modern day Gorman where it intersected part of what would become the Ridge Route. Unlike the Ridge Route (the original alignment of US Route 99) which turned north into Tejon Pass to reach San Joaquin Valley via Grapevine Canyon the course of El Camino Viejo continued west into Cuddy Valley. El Camino Viejo passed through Cuddy Valley along the northern flank of Mount Pinos and into San Emigdio Mountains.
El Camino Viejo continued northward through San Emigdio Canyon and emerged into San Joaquin Valley near the shores of Kern Lake. The highway followed the western watershed of Tulare Lake following the general corridor of modern California State Route 33 towards Corral Hollow Pass in the Diablo Range.
El Camino Viejo continued to serve Las Californias until the Mexican War of Independence. Las Californias became a Mexican Territory in 1821 and was renamed to Alta California in 1824. Mexican governance brought further civilization to San Joaquin Valley, but it largely remained a remote landscape with few changes to El Camino Viejo. Everything would change following the discovery of Gold in Sutter's Mill along the South Fork American River in the Sierra Nevada range during January of 1848.
In February of 1848 the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was ratified which ceded Alta California to the United States at the conclusion of the Mexican-American War. By March news of the discovery of gold at Sutter's Mill was published by newspapers in San Francisco. The New York Herald published their article on the gold discovery in August of 1848 bringing widespread attention to the newly acquired Californian territory.
Then United States President James Polk spoke of the gold discovery in California in December 1848. By 1849 the California Gold Rush had begun which spurred growth throughout California. A large percentage of the influx of settlers made their way to the Sierra Nevada range to take advantage of the plentiful mining claims. California itself would become a State in 1850.
Although the California Gold Rush was mainly centered around the northern extent of the Sierra Nevada range it was wasn't long before additional claims were made further south. By 1853 gold claims were struck along the Kern River which led to the Kern River Gold Rush. The Kern River Gold Rush would spur numerous claims in the southern Sierra Nevada.
Given the routing of El Camino Viejo was largely aligned west of Tulare Lake it was found to be wanting as a major stage road which would link Stockton, the southern Sierra Nevada mining claims and Los Angeles. A new route from Stockton to Los Angeles following the Sierra Nevada along the eastern edge of San Joaquin Valley was plotted. This state route came to be known as the Stockton-Los Angeles Road.
In 1853 Castac Pass through Grapevine Canyon west of the Old Tejon Pass was surveyed by Robert S. Williamson of the Army Corps of Engineers for a possible path of Transcontinental Railroad. The 1853 surveying expedition found Castac Pass through Grapevine Canyon to be a far more viable route for travelers and the primary alignment was of the Stockton-Los Angeles Road was shifted west from Old Tejon Pass.
Castac Pass had a far lower terminal elevation at 4,144 feet above sea level and had a gentler grade through Grapevine Canyon. In 1854 a U.S. Army Garrison was established at Fort Tejon in Grapevine Canyon near modern Lebec to protect settlers and travelers along the Stockton-Los Angeles Road. In time Castac Pass became known as Fort Tejon Pass and eventually simply Tejon Pass. Tejon Pass would later become part of the Ridge Route alignment and Interstate 5.
The 1857 Britton & Rey's Map of California shows all the major routes traversing the mountains between San Fernando Valley and San Joaquin Valley. Highlighted below the Cuddy Canyon alignment of El Camino Viejo, the path over Old Tejon Pass, and the primary route of the Stockton-Los Angeles Road over Tejon Pass can be seen. The route of El Camino Viejo and Stockton-Los Angeles Road south of Antelope Valley took an identical path through San Francisquito Canyon to San Fernando Valley. Mount Pinos can be seen as a major waypoint a short distance west of Fort Tejon.
The establishment of Fort Tejon spurred commercial logging interests in the San Emigdio Mountains and on Mount Pinos. A sawmill on the northern flank of Mount Pinos was established by Joseph Gale. Gale's sawmill would begin to supply lumber for construction of buildings at Fort Tejon (history of Los Padres National Forest) by 1857. Gale hauled lumber from Mount Pinos eastward along a road constructed through Mill Canyon which emerged into Cuddy Valley at what is now Lockwood Valley Road.
Logging operations would continue for decades along Mount Pinos. During the 1860s rumors would persist that a lost Spanish gold was located somewhere along the mountain. No significant sources of gold were ever found but the southern flank of the mountain was found to have ore deposits. These deposits were worked in the 1890s and early 1900s. These mining claims led to the plotting of the small community of Stauffer which was located near the existing logging road at Mill Canyon in Lockwood Valley.
Mount Pinos would be added to the Santa Barbara Forest Reserve in 1905. The reserve would be declared as Santa Barbara National Forest on March 4, 1907. Sawmill Mountain, Mount Pinos, the Mill Canyon Road (shown as a foot trail) and Frazier Borax Mine at Stauffer can all be seen on the 1908 United States Geological Survey map of Mount Pinos.
The 1924 Rand McNally Auto Trail map of California displays no major roadways from Lockwood Valley to the top of Mount Pinos.
During the early 1930s there would be numerous Civilian Conservation Corps projects within Santa Barbara National Forest. These projects were largely intended to enhance recreational access to National Forest lands. The Mill Canyon Road was upgraded to modern automotive standards along with Seymour Creek Road. Both roads are shown emerging from Lockwood Valley Road (shown as Lockwood-Ozema Road) towards the general vicinity of Mount Pinos on the 1935 Division of Highways map of Ventura County.
The first reported use of Mount Pinos as Forest Service fire lookout is from 1927. During World War II circa 1942-1943 a dual service fire lookout and Aircraft Warning Service (AWS) tower was constructed on the mountain. The structure was staffed by Forest Service workers who would report unknown aircraft sitings to the Army.
The Mount Pinos AWS tower can be seen below in a photo sourced from firetower.org.
The 1943 United States Geological Survey map displays Mill Canyon Road as the primary highway from Lockwood Valley to Mount Pinos. Mill Canyon Road is shown to be up to modern highway standards as far west as the junction with Seymour Creek Road. Seymour Creek Road is displayed as a primitive Forest Road.
Mill Canyon Road can be seen terminating at the Mount Pinos AWS tower on the 1943 United States Geological Survey map of Sawmill Mountain. Mount Pinos is then shown with an elevation of 8,831 feet above sea level. This has been corrected via modern surveys to 8,847 feet above sea level.
Following World War II usage of the Mount Pinos AWS tower seems to have waned. The mountain became more popular for recreational hiking due to the relatively easy to reach summit. The 1956 Shell Highway Map of California displays Mill Canyon Road as a major highway serving Mount Pinos.
During the late 1950s Kern County would construct Mount Pinos Highway as a new access road to the top of the namesake mountain. The then new highway despite dipping briefly into Ventura County was assigned as Kern County Road 349. The corridor originated at the intersection of Cuddy Valley Road and Mil Potrero Highway. The first westbound eight miles were comprised of a new surfaced grade whereas the final two miles to Mount Pinos were annexed from the existing Mill Canyon Road.
Mount Pinos Highway first appears on the 1959 United States Geological Survey map of Los Angeles. According to Pjamm Cylcing the gradient of the paved portion of Mount Pinos Highway is an average 5.6% incline. The steepest portions of the corridor are noted to be around 11% incline a short distance south of Cuddy Valley Road.
Mount Pinos Highway has become a popular departure point for winter cross country skiing. The Mount Pinos Nordic Patrol was established in 1976 as a volunteer rescue service based out of the paved end of Mount Pinos Highway.
Part 2; a drive and hike on Mount Pinos Highway
Westbound Mount Pinos Highway begins at the terminus of Cuddy Valley Road at Mil Potrero Highway. Traffic wishing to access California State Routes 33 and 166 are directed to follow Mil Potrero Highway westbound through Pine Mountain Club onward to Hudson Ranch Road. Mount Pinos Highway traffic is advised to continue straight and continue on the roadway for 8 miles.
Westbound Mount Pinos Highway begins a quick ascent and intersects Burbank Road.
Mount Pinos Highways continues to climb via a gentle but winding grade. Kern County Road 349 Postmile paddles are observable even in segment which dips into Ventura County. Mount Pinos Highway intersects both Mill Canyon Road (Forest Road 9N04) and Seymour Creek Road (Forest Road 8N05) a short distance from McGill Campground.
Mount Pinos Highway passes by the Mount Pinos Campground.
The paved portion of Mount Pinos Highway terminates at 8,300 feet above sea level. Numerous trails branch away from the parking area in front of the Mount Pinos Nordic Base. The Chula Vista Campground is where part of the now abandoned segment of Mill Canyon Road can be found. Signage indicates Mount Pinos can be reached by following the dirt part of Mount Pinos Highway.
A short distance from the beginning of the dirt portion of Mount Pinos Highway a gate is encountered. This gate appears to be maintained by Edwards Air Force Base and is intended to keep vehicles off the roadway. The road is largely open to only hikers and cross-country skiers.
The dirt part of Mount Pinos Highway is an easy grade which quickly emerges onto a clearing facing Mount Pinos.
An unmanned Edwards Air Force Base radar installation is located at the summit of Mount Pinos.
Two United States Geological Survey bench markers can be found at Mount Pinos.
The view facing east from the summit of Mount Pinos.
The view from Mount Pinos facing northward towards the San Emigdio Mountains, San Joaquin Valley and the Sierra Nevada range.
The start of the Tumamait Trail can be found immediately west of Mount Pinos. The trail is named after Vincent Tumamait who was a local native storyteller who lived from 1919-1992. Numerous features can be seen at the beginning of the trail such as Wheeler Gorge, Cuyama Valley, Carrizo Plain, the fold of the San Andreas Fault and San Joaquin Valley.
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